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	<title>Sleepy Breeze &#187; pattern</title>
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		<title>Backpack, backpack</title>
		<link>http://sleepybreeze.com/2008/01/19/backpack-backpack/</link>
		<comments>http://sleepybreeze.com/2008/01/19/backpack-backpack/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Jan 2008 21:43:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Breeze</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Breeze]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[knitting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pattern]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sleepybreeze.com/2008/01/19/backpack-backpack/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The whole fam ran out to the yarn store the other night to pick up a few things, and with all my new knitting stuff, I&#8217;ve taken a break from my sock (over the six inch mark now) to whip up a backpack for Tulip. She wants something like Dora&#8217;s purple bag, and while it [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The whole fam ran out to the yarn store the other night to pick up a few things, and with all my new knitting stuff, I&#8217;ve taken a break from my sock (over the six inch mark now) to whip up a backpack for Tulip. She wants something like Dora&#8217;s purple bag, and while it is purple, I&#8217;m knitting it and making some adjustments. For example, I&#8217;m still in love with simple cables, and I like how they allow a bit of flex but nip the flex in at the cable, so I&#8217;m adding them to the front of my design. I&#8217;m also incorporating a small heart on the bottom of the bag, just a little &#8220;I love you&#8221; for my girl. She&#8217;s all about hearts right now, and she inevitably announces that &#8220;hearts mean love&#8221; whenever she spots one. I&#8217;m making up the pattern as I go, so I can put it up for the world to share. I can&#8217;t stand finish work, so I&#8217;m designing a bag that requires as little of it as possible. I think I&#8217;m going to manage to only sew up the sides and sew on the straps, which is pretty good considering.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ll add a picture as soon as I finish. I&#8217;m getting there. I&#8217;ve already got the back and bottom, and I&#8217;m busy cabling up the front right now. Again, I&#8217;m posting this not because I think I&#8217;m a brilliant knitting pattern designer but in case I need to duplicate this for my own purposes, but hey, go ahead and make it if you&#8217;d like. I&#8217;d be happy to share.</p>
<p><strong> Materials:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>#7knitting needles</li>
<li>#7 double point needles</li>
<li>worsted weight yarn of your choice</li>
<li>tapestry needle</li>
</ul>
<p>Gauge: 11 stitches=2 inches</p>
<p><strong>Directions:</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>C0 36 stitches.</li>
<li>K in SS for 8 inches finishing on a wrong side row.</li>
<li>P the next right side row. This row marks the switch from the back piece to the bottom piece.</li>
<li>K in SS for 1.25 inches, and on the next right side row k 12, p 1, k to end. (This is Tulip&#8217;s hidden heart. You can skip it and just knit until you reach 2 inches and start the decreases instead. I&#8217;ll mark where they begin with an *.)</li>
<li>Next row: P until the stitch before the heart&#8217;s first stitch. k 3, p to end.</li>
<li>Next row: K to the heart stitches, p 3, k to end.</li>
<li>Next row: P to the stitch before the heart&#8217;s stitches, k 5, p to en d.</li>
<li>Next row: K to the stitch before the heart&#8217;s stitches, p 7, k to end.</li>
<li>Next row: P to the stitch before the heart&#8217;s stitches, k 9, p to end.</li>
<li>Next row: * K 2, slp, psso, (if you are not adding the heart, skip to the next *) K to the heart stitches, p 9, k to the last 4 stitches k2tog, k to end. Continue decreasing on right side rows until you have 28 stitches remaining.</li>
<li>Next row: P to heart, k 9, p to end. (*If no heart, p entire row.)</li>
<li>Next row: (Decrease row!) K to heart, p 4, k 1, p 4, k to end.</li>
<li>Next row: P to heart, p1, k2, p 3, k 2, and p to end. You have finished the heard. Contiue to decrease until you have 28 stitches as mentioned above.</li>
<li>P a k row to turn the corner from the bottom of your bag to the front. At the end of the purl row, pick up 20 stitches along the side with a dpn.</li>
<li>Turn work and p the 48 stitches on your needles, switching to dpns as you go.</li>
<li>Pick up 20 stitches along the other side with a third dpn. Now you have 68 stitches on 3 dpn.</li>
<li>K 8, p 1, *k 4, p1 to end to set the 4&#215;1 rib pattern.</li>
<li>Follow the rib pattern for 5 rows, then cable all but the columns on each side.</li>
<li>Continue following the rib and cabling on every 6th row until the front piece is 8 inches. BO.</li>
<li>Seam the sides of the front to the sides of the back.</li>
<li>Pick up stitches along the top of the back piece.</li>
<li>Row one of back piece: k 5, p to last 5, k 5.</li>
<li>Row two of pack piece: p 5, k to last 5, p 5.</li>
<li>Repeat rows 22 and 23 until you have 3 inches, add your favorite button hole.</li>
<li>After button hole, start decreases on right side rows by p 5, k 2, slp, psso, k to last 9 stitches, k2tog, k 2, p 5.</li>
<li>B0 when work reaches 5 inches.</li>
<li>Sew button to front of bag in appropriate place. #7 dpns, two should be  6 inches long and 2 should be 12 inches long.</li>
<li>Attach long i-cords to back of bag near the top and to the sides of the back piece and short i-cords to back of bag near the bottom and to the sides of back piece.</li>
<li>Weave in all the strays, but there shouldn&#8217;t be too many.</li>
</ol>
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